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Ever since I first read the autobiography, In the Land of Grasshopper's Song I wanted to to find the places described. I looked for Ishi Pishi, I found Katimin, the center of the world, A’uuyich, what we today call Sugarloaf Mountain; I wanted to explore Masuhsava, the Salmon River, and Ishkeesh, the Klamath River. I wanted to be able to feel life as it was once was.
Brad and I'd traveled along the Klamath River many times on our way to the Redwoods. Then one time, I saw the sign for the Salmon River, and I saw that if I followed that road, I'd come out at either Callahan or Etna. I knew where both of those towns were. I'd visited them more than once. So on the way back from Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, I suggested we take a detour and check out the Salmon River. We wanted a little more information than we had, so We stopped in the towns of Willow Creek and Hoopa and asked people. Several people. Surprisingly, most knew nothing about it. One woman told me she'd never go that way. "What if you ran out of gas?" she asked. I found it interesting that that sense of the wild continued to hold on after all these years. Finally, we asked someone who did know.
In Willow Creek, I believe it was, a woman at the information center was a little more forthcoming, but still not as much so as I would have liked. However, she did tell us the roads were hazardous, that one had to be aware of the potential danger of landslides. I listened to her, and thought she'd told me. I was now aware. In retrospect, considering that the weather had been quite wet for the entire length of our journey: on the coast, at the Redwoods, along the Klamath, and since I am now much more familiar with the area, I realize she was telling us we should not go along the Salmon at that time. The hazards of landslides were very real. Although the roads are paved all along the gorge, and both forks of the Salmon, the danger as she mentioned is patently obvious to me now. So plan accordingly.
On our first trip we took the south fork to Callahan. I'm not including the South Fork as part of this tour because I need to go back during better weather. I am including the south fork of the Salmon, which Brad and I love. Not that both forks aren't beautiful. They are. But the north fork includes Sawyers Bar, and that town is an unequivocal step back into time. Offering a moving photograph of life in another, more rugged era.
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Begin in Weed, California*:
Weed, California, an old mill town, located at the junction of Hwy 97 and I - 5, 50 miles south of the Oregon California border. Hence a good place to begin for more than one reason. We stopped in Weed as we always do for good, wholesome food at Jim and Ellie's Espresso and Bakery> If you want to check it out, they serve an excellent veggie sandwich, and others as well, I imagine. My preference is vegetables. All sandwiches are served on their 5 Seed Bread made right there in the bakery. Most excellent. They also serve apple dumplings, nothing like those my mom always made, but excellent nevertheless. Other delights include Cappuccino, Lattes, Italian Sodas, Chai Teac, turnovers, strudel, cookies, soup and more. If you want to stop, they're located on the main drag, Weed Blvd, on right side heading south. The bakery closes at 4:30 in the summer, 4:00 in the winter, so plan ahead.
If you're interested, Weed also offers an eclectic grouping of shops in an old mercantile building. Turn east at the Chevron station, and you'll come to it on the right. It's white and certainly stands out ...
You'll find all the other offerings of life in America at the southern exit to I-5: McDonalds, Burger King, Taco Bell, Long John Silvers, I think, and more.
The bakery is at the northern exit to Weed, however, and that's where you want to go. North. So take a northerly heading and follow Weed Blvd until it merges with I -5.
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Leave I - 5 at exit 751, turn north towards Gazelle.
Brad and I like to avoid the freeways when we're on a scenic journey like this and meander. If you prefer, stay on I - 5 exit 759, find Gazelle and continue with the following directions. :-)
In Gazelle, turn on road 26 and head in a southwesterly direction on Gazelle Mountain Pass to Callahan, an old mining town, surprise. Callahan is located on the Scott River, which was heavily mined as can be readily seen by all the mine tailings. The first time I was in Callahan, we stopped at the general store, across from the old hotel, which was not a ruin then, offering a multitude of memories. It's still there, but it's definitely a ruin, windows boarded, walls caving in. It's not safe to walk on the old sidewalk, made originally for wagons, not cars ... However, the general store, located across the street, seems to be in an old feed building or something, with sidewalks also made for wagons, not cars. It was a drowsy day, that first day through. At that time we were headed for the Trinity Alps, Weaverville, and finally the Redwoods, but since we'd never been in Callahan, we sat on an old church pew on the sidewalk in front of the little store, and conversed with the owner. She had little bits of information to share, not the least being that nature had taken over those old mine tailings, and it could be quite beautiful walking through them. This is something I've yet to do, still I offer it to you now in the event such a walk has an appeal. Stop at the general store - there are two now - and ask about it.
To get where we're going on this trip, you need to drive through Callihan, heading north to Etna.
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*If you need to cut the drive to Etna short, or if that's your preference, you can begin in Yreka, California.
Exit I - 5 at Yreka, exit 775. Take Hwy 3 in a southwesterly direction to Fort Jones.
If you want to follow the Scott River for a time, continue through Fort Jones along the river. The road will curve around, crossing the river at one point in a "U" that brings you into Greenville. At Greenville continue on Hwy 3 to Etna. If you don't care about this drive along the Scott River, take Road 12 from Fort Jones to Greenville, and that will cut off between 30 and 40 miles on your drive.
No matter how you elect to do it, you need to get to Etna and Sawyers Bar Road.
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Etna and Scott Valley in northern California, a step back into history.
Etna, unlike Callahan, is populated. There are many old homes, and the residents I've spoken to feel a great sense of pride about their home, the area and all it has to offer. I'm including a copy of a map of a walking tour, created by the Etna Enthusiasts, for your enjoyment. Also, the Old Fashioned Soda Fountain at Scott Valley Drug, established in 1902, on Main Street is a step back into time in itself. The drugstore was once a Denny Bar store, one of the first chain stores in California. Try a lime rickey, or perhaps an old fashioned soda. I tried strawberry and it was great. Sit outside at tables on a sidewalk also built for wagons. Stop at the world renowned brewery for a brew. Etna also has a small museum operated by the Native Daughters of the Golden West. We wanted to go, but it was closed when we drove through town. If you can, don't miss it, it's located in a huge walk-in safe. Perhaps you'll have better luck. :-)
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Heading out for Sawyer's Bar and the Salmon River:
Travel in a southwesterly direction on road 37, otherwise known as Sawyers Bar Road. Nature shows many of her charms here. If you're like me, you'll stop and take photograph after photograph, not realizing that what you're seeing here, although lovely, is simply a precursor of what is yet to come. Indeed, I have a 256 mg photo card for my camera, and I filled it up long before I finished this trip. Brad too, although his card is only 128 mg.
We stopped at a little creek, walked along the bank for awhile. Then moved on.
These are the Salmon Mountains here. Ancient terrane accreted to the western coast of North America when the continent collided with an island arc somewhere in the ocean offshore. Much interesting geology in northern California and southwestern Oregon if you're interested.
Coming off the summit for Etna Mountain, check out the steep, mountainous terrain, and before long, you'll see the sign for the road that leads to the trailhead for Taylor Lake on the left - obviously, it would be quite hazardous to go the right at this point. :-). There are many trails here. The shortest and most easily accessible is the one to Taylor Lake. If you want to see more, take the jog in the trail to Smith Lake. Also, hike around Taylor lake and take the trail to Hogan Lake. The trail to Smith Lake connects with the Pacific Crest Trail not too long before you get to Smith Lake. Hang around if you like. The hike to Taylor Lake isn't very long, and it would be quite easy to pack camping gear in there, along with a rubber raft and spend a most enjoyable time.
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